2023 kivi - 94 pts from James Suckling

Melt­ed-silk tex­ture with sub­tle savori­ness nes­tles against black­cur­rants and bruised plums. A tug of tilled earth shows with air, as do fla­vors of toast­ed fen­nel seeds, star anise and a gen­er­ous sprin­kling of sweet spices through the sticky fin­ish. Drink or hold. — 94 pts

Bri­an Freedman/​James Suckling