2023 noir - 95 pts from James Suckling

Dense, spicy and min­er­al with a core of soy-sauce and bouil­lon savori­ness anchor­ing anise-scent­ed black­ber­ries and mul­ber­ries. Broad and tex­tur­al yet still well defined, this has the black-tea tan­nins and bal­anced acid­i­ty for the long haul but also the ripe plums, dark berries and sweet spices that make it a joy in the short term. Drink or hold. — 95 pts

Bri­an Freedman/​James Suckling